16 Days 15 Nights
At an altitude of 6387 M/ 20960 FT, Black Peak is the highest peak in the Saraswati mountain range near Ruinsara Valley of the Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand. In the local dialect, Black Peak means “Kalanag” since the top part of the peak resembles a Black Cobra. It is the most dominating peak of the entire Bandarpunch massif. Providing a gradual climb from the Southern side eventually leading to a very steep summit climb with a near 70-degree incline and a 75 feet ice wall, the climb to the summit of Black Peak is challenging and technical. It is only chosen by professional climbers for an adventure of a lifetime. Black peak is located in the Govind National Park area known for its diverse flora and fauna. The trail leading to the mountain is blessed with magnificent alpine meadows, pine forests, moraine ridges, boulders, and glacier basins. Being the highest peak in the range amongst Saraswati Devi Parvat (Bandarpunch I, 6316 m) and Hanuman Parvat (White Peak or Bandarpunch II, 6102 m), to reach the zenith of the Black Peak will take a lot of effort and experience testing your limits but rewarding you with unparalleled views of the full Bandarpunch family, a milestone for any aspiring trekker and mountaineer.
Total distance 210 km (10 Hours journey) via mussoorie
Mode of journey – By taxi
Altitude – Sankri base camp – 1920 Meters
Night stay – In Guest Houses.
Last ATM- Purola village
Rockclimber provides transport for trekkers from Dehradun Railway Station/ISBT early in the morning which will leave for Sankri around 6:00 am.
Enjoy breakfast and lunch on the way in beautiful environment. After the identification at Mori check post, travels will reach our base camp Sankri. It will be a night stay in the guest house after the dinner.
Short briefing about our next day trek will be conducted by the guides. We request our trekkers to understand those points for smooth journey without causing harm to ourselves and our mother nature.
Today is the start of your expedition. Begin early and drive to Taluka, a small hamlet located 11km from Sankri. It has a few shops and houses. It is located near Govind National Park. From Taluka you begin your trek towards Seema. The trek is an easy one through picturesque villages and pine trees. A gradual ascent through an abundantly present walnut and chestnut trees will take you to a trail over a stream towards a vast green meadow past the village of Datmir leading to a thick forest section. The trail becomes steep and leads to a couple of bridges which when crossed will take you to the beautiful village of Seema. Have dinner and stay overnight in tents.
Today we trek to the hallowed lake of Ruinsara through trails with a vast array of alpine flowers. Ruinsara Tal has enthralling views of the glittering Swargarohini peaks. This is your campsite for the night with beautiful landscapes and views of mountain farming. Ruinsara Tal is associated with the Indian mythological epic Mahabharata, where the Pandavas were exiled for fourteen years. Overnight camp at Ruinsara Tal.
Today’s journey from Ruinsara Tal to the Kyarkoti Base Camp will be undertaken in 5-6 hours. The kyarkoti base camp is a patch of grassland with a spring adjacent to it and surrounded by boulders and snow peaked mountains. The view of the Black Peak summit from this base camp instills excitement and an adrenaline rush. This campsite is a perfect base camp to exercise your mountaineering proficiency and plan to overcome challenges involved in peaking the Black Peak. Overnight camp at Kyarkoti.
Today will be a rest day at our base camp. It will help you to get acclimatized and prepare all the necessary equipment needed for the upcoming summit day.
Today a 4-5 hours trek will take us from the Kyarkoti base camp to our advanced base camp where we will load ferry, shift all the essential equipment and luggage. Our technical guides will discern the further gradient and evaluate the route and environment. With the team we setup our advanced base camp and retire for the night.
The trail from to the ABC will take you through grassy land, boulders followed by a steep climb through a landslide region which will descend to moraine patches followed by a glacier. The clear view of the Black Peak from this point will be enthralling as you will be heading to summit this majestic mountain. We establish our Camp 1 here and load the ferry and carry all essential things. Return back to the ABC and retire for the night.
We repeat the same route we took to establish our Camp 1 yesterday. Retire for the night.
Today we make a move to our Summit camp. After bypassing a number of crevasses we set-up our camp on a snow field with the majestic view of Swargarohini in the North, Bandarpunch in the south and the Black Peak visible towards the South-east. The thought of summiting Kalanag has been in your mind since day one and tomorrow it will finally come true. Excitement levels are over the peak. We set up our camp for the night and prepare for the summit attempt of Black Peak the next day. Retire early as the summit attempt will start a little after midnight.
Today is the day you all have been waiting for. We start by 0200 hours while the snow remains hard making it easier to walk with a decent pace, aiming to reach the summit in 7-8 hours. The summit climb involves fixing a rope to negotiate a 75-100 feet vertical wall of slope making it extremely technical and challenging. Utmost care needs to be taken at this point. The slope being very steep, it is important for the lead climber to open and fix the route leading to a ridgeline. Finally, you reach the summit. The summit of Black Peak (Kalanag) is flat. Take some photos of your spectacular endeavor to cherish this moment. Don’t spend a lot of time at this extreme altitude and start to descend down to your summit camp and Camp 1 and if possible to your base camp.
Reserve a day for summit climb if the weather does not allow you to summit the day before.
This day we shall wrap up our summit camp and camp1 and move to our base camp. Celebrate your success and cherish the moments. Retire for the night.
From the base camp descend down to Ruinsara Tal. Spend the rest of the day exploring the mythological lake and indulge in stories about Ruinsara associated with Mahabharata from the locals. Retire for the night at the camps.
Today we descend to the Semma village. Set-up tents here and spend the day exploring the beautiful village at your pace. You can also explore the nearby village of Osla located on the other side of the river. Visit the temple of Duryodhana, the main attraction Osla and spend time with the locals. Retire for the night.
From Seema we trek back to Taluka where a vehicle will be waiting to drive you to Sankri. Spend the day reminiscing and celebrating your successful feat. Enjoy your stay in the hotel.
Have your breakfast at Sankri and leave for Dehradun. You will reach Dehradun by 8-9 hours. Consider this time in order to plan your stay in Dehradun or your departure from Dehradun.